Here we go again: mussels are back in the kitchen, and with them one of the most awaited seasons of the house. Four ways to serve them: plain, in white wine, in cream and garlic, or Lamy-style, coated in a shellfish sauce with mushrooms and flambéed scampi.

The mussel menu is served lunchtime and evening, as long as the deliveries keep coming, until 14 October. Season evenings fill up fast: remember to book.